ingredient focus: tea

the bottom line

More than just a comforting hot drink on a cold winter day, tea is a remarkable ingredient that possesses a long list of clinical effects. Clinical research on this ubiquitous ingredient demonstrates antioxidant, anti-hyaluronidase, anti-inflammatory, slimming, and photoprotective properties. All this science translates into a multifunctional powerhouse capable of both protecting and rejuvenating the skin.

 

first layer: the history of tea

The history of tea (Camellia sinensis) is both fascinating and complex.  According to legend, the first cup of tea was created by chance when leaves from a wild tea tree drifted into a pot of boiling water of the Chinese Emperor Shen Nong. Tea was initially used for medicinal purposes, and only gradually gained popularity as a drink. The Ch’a Ching, or Classic of Tea treatise, written by a Buddhist monk in 733 AD, was a spiritual description of the types, uses, and methods of preparing tea. Tea was introduced to Japan by a Buddhist monk in the early 9^th century, but did not arrive in the West until the 16^th century.  By the early 18^th century, the British East India Company had established trading stations in Bombay, Bengal, and Madras. In the 19^th century, the Company developed tea estates in Assam and Darjeeling. 

There are many different varieties of tea, but they generally fall categories based on the type of processing and level of oxidation*.  White tea is made from the buds of the tea plant and harvested early in the season. This delicate tea contains just a small amount of caffeine while possessing high levels of antioxidants* which defend against damaging free radicals* to combat signs of aging.  Green tea is slightly more oxidized than its pale sister and is plentiful in catechins* and polyphenols*. Matcha is a green tea powder from Japan which contains the whole tea leaf. As a result, one glass of matcha is considered to be equivalent to 10 cups of brewed green tea in terms of nutritional value and antioxidant content. Black tea is a fermented variety of tea derived from the same Camellia sinensis plant that produces green tea. This tea has the highest caffeine content and can help mental clarity and memory. Black tea ferment is also an antioxidant which helps to defend against free radicals.

 

second layer: the science of tea

The tea plant is notable as a rich source of bioactive compounds, including almost 4000 different metabolites. Caffeine accounts for approximately 3% of tea’s dry weight. The bitter taste and astringent* effect of tea is attributed to the presence of polyphenols* which make up 30-40% of the plant. Polyphenols present within tea include flavonoids*, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), and additional catechins*. The exact composition of tea varies according to its fermentation process, with black tea containing EGCG, gallocatechin gallate, gallocatechin, catechin, epicatechin, epicatechin gallate, and epigallocatechin. Green tea, in contrast, is particularly rich in EGCG. Tea also contains small amounts of theobromine and theophylline which are xanthines* and stimulants like caffeine.  

 

third layer: skincare and tea

Each layer of the skin – epidermis, dermis, and subcutaneous tissue – has its own unique functions, and the various components of tea affect each differently. Within the epidermis, tea exerts its effects secondary to its strong antioxidant activity. Polyphenols play a role by protecting against ultraviolet (UV) radiation and inhibition of the enzymes lipoxygenase, metalloproteinase, hyaluronidase, and collagenase, which in turn delays the symptoms of skin aging. Microcirculation is boosted within the dermis secondary to tea, which provides improved oxygenation and nutrition to the skin. Some specific skin benefits include the following:

skin conditioning: tea increases smoothness of the skin, moisture levels, and decreases sebum production. Studies have demonstrated that the topical application of green tea extract may reduce excess sebum production in the skin. 

photoprotection: tea leaf extract absorbs UV radiation, providing a protective effect. The catechin EGCG within green tea combats the negative effects of UV radiation by decreasing DNA damage, redness, and immunosuppression. While tea extract alone protects against UVB radiation, the addition of zinc oxide and titanium oxide in sunscreen preparations has been shown to protect against damage secondary to UVA and UVB rays.

antioxidant: as very strong antioxidant agents, tea catechins act at almost every step in the free radical pathway by directly quenching reactive oxygen species, chelating trace elements involved in the generation of free radicals, enhancing the production of antioxidant enzymes, inhibiting the enzymes involved in the generation of reactive oxygen species, and protecting and regenerating antioxidant compounds.

slimming properties: caffeine, the major alkaloid present within tea leaves, has been shown to stimulate the microcirculation of the skin, resulting in improvement of cell oxygenation and accelerated fat burning. Catechins found in tea are also able to inhibit the glycation and oxidation of proteins, which in turn prevents the formation of cellulite.

 

fourth layer: how we do it

Tea is beautiful, too. It’s one of the key ingredients in our white tea & lychee toner, part of our capsule anokha man. white tea is layered with lychee, willow bark, rice, and Centella asiatica to gently exfoliate and brighten sebum-rich skin. Our tsubaki & bakuchiol eye crème incorporates caffeine to stimulate microcirculation, fight oxidative stress, brighten dark circles, and show puffiness to the door.

All this and more at anokhaskincare.com .

xx

anokha

 

references:

1.      Koch W, Zagorska J, Marzec Z, Kakula-Koch W. Applications of tea (Camellia sinensis) and its active constituents in cosmetics. Molecules 2019; 24: 4277.

2.     Arct J, Pytkowska K. Flavonoids as components of biologically active cosmeceuticals. Clin Dermatol 2008; 26: 347-357.

3.     Wang SQ, Balagula Y, Osterwalder U. Photoprotection: a review of current and future technologies. Dermatol Th 2010; 23: 31-47.

4.     Saric S, Manisha N, Sivamani RK. Geen tea and other tea polyphenols: effects on sebum production and acne vulgaris. Antioxidants 2017; 6: 2.

5.     www.wikipedia.org

 

*definitions:

antioxidants: an antioxidant is a compound that inhibits oxidation. free radicals create oxidative stress and an inflammatory response which in turn can damage DNA and result in injury to the epidermal and dermal layers of the skin. in the skin, this manifests as premature aging with decreased elasticity leading to increased wrinkling, age spots, and decreased skin tone. antioxidants stabilize free radicals, which in turn limits their ability to damage the body. 

astringent: an astringent is a substance that tightens the skin. in skincare, we use them to cleanse, help reduce the appearance of pores, and even reduce inflammation and acne.

catechins: catechins are a type of antioxidant found in plants that may help prevent and treat diseases. they are a class of flavonoid called flavanols. some catechins include epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), gallocatechin gallate, gallocatechin, catechin, epicatechin, epicatechin gallate, and epigallocatechin.

chelation: bonding of ions and molecules to metal ions. the use of chelators in skincare has been shown to decrease signs of aging.

flavonoids: flavonoids are a diverse group of plant chemicals, or phytonutrients, found in almost all fruits and vegetables. like carotenoids, they help to give fruits and vegetables their vivid hues. flavonoids are powerful antioxidants that fight inflammation and help to support the immune system. 

oxidation: a chemical process that occurs when atoms or groups of atoms lose electrons. 

phenol: a natural substance found in plants and some essential oils.

polyphenols: a large family of naturally occurring phenols which are abundant in plants. they include flavonoids and phenolic acids. they are known for their antioxidant properties.

xanthine: a chemical compound found in the body and in some plants. caffeine is a derivative of xanthine.

 

faq’s:

does tea help with skincare?

tea contains many antioxidants that combat free radicals in the body and boost skin health.

 

which tea is anti-aging?

green tea is unfermented, which allows it to retain most of its natural antioxidants and polyphenols. it is considered to be an excellent tea for anti-aging when applied topically and taken internally.

 

which tea is best for skin tightening?

green tea contains antioxidants known as catechins which are anti-inflammatory and provide photoprotection while improving the elasticity of the skin.

 

what tea makes your face glow?

white tea is believed to enhance the skin’s natural glow as a result of its high antioxidant content.

 

what tea is good for youthful skin?

teas which are believed to be useful for youthful skin include spearmint tea, chamomile tea, green tea, hibiscus tea, licorice root tea, ginger tea, and dandelion root tea.